Formerly https://lemm.ee/u/romkslqusz
Yeah, it’s just an inline resistor
A potentiometer is a resistor that you adjust using a dial. If you want control, you may want to get a PWM fan control module. There’s the Noctua NA-FC1 https://www.noctua.at/en/products/na-fc1 but that’s pretty much just a fancy expensive version, you can find the same concept for as little as $1-2 USD
Assuming the supply can saturate the current the fan will use, at 12V it’ll be running at full speed. That’s probably pretty loud. Give it 5V, it’ll run slower and quieter.
What the hell? Premise they’re going with just makes it any other gameshow. Missed opportunity to have each “Vault” have some kind of unique experiment or twist.
Not sure if their comment is related / deliberate, but the image in the article is from the film Idiocracy
In the film, the people of the future speak real slow and dumb. When they hear the time travelling protagonist speak in a vanilla US West Coast accent, the narrator describes them as thinking he sounds “Faggy and pretentious”, there are multiple points in the film where future-folk tell the main character “you sound like a fag”
Due to how they are affected by Bit Rot, I would bot use any kind of flash based media (USB Flash Drive, SSD, MicroSD, etc) for any kind of long-term backup.
Can confirm, I’ve done multiple display replacements for systems that had the little plastic sliding camera covers.
Defend MYself? No! YOU defend YOUrself!
I know I can put together a prompt to give any of today’s leading models and am essentially guaranteed a fresh perspective on the topic of interest
I’ll never again ask a human to write a computer program shorter than about a thousand lines, since an LLM will do it better
I can agree with some of the parts about how some humans can be really annoying but this mostly reads like AI propaganda from someone who has deluded themselves into believing an LLM is actually any good at critical thought and context awareness.
I don’t know that PhotoRec was the ideal place to start for this case, as it is file signature based and will scrape for an insane number of results.
I recommend that you give DMDE a shot, run a full scan of your disk and then have a look through the FS Reconstruction with deleted files included.
May as well add a Honeywell PTM7950 pad while you have the bare board
My guess is that the microswitch is not closing.
If you have a multimeter, you can use continuity mode across its two main pins and press the button to confirm whether or not it is completing its circuit.
The replacement component is likely to be somewhat generic and available through Digikey or Mouser.
This is SMD level rework, while technically achievable with a fine tipped soldering iron I would do the removal with a hot air station. If that’s beyond your tool / skill set, any shop that offers component level repair / microsoldering type services should be equipped to execute the repair for you.
Yes
Full quote:
One of the overlay’s most interesting quirks is the developer’s recommendation to run two GPUs. Dedicating one GPU to just running the CRT emulation GPU shader allegedly eliminates a lot of desync issues in most games compared to running everything on one dedicated graphics card (even if that graphics card is very quick, apparently). Luckily, the GPU shader portion is extremely lightweight, and even an old Intel HD 770 can allegedly run the shader at well over 800 FPS at 1080p. This will be an annoying quirk gamers with no integrated graphics chips will have to deal with (particularly AM4-based Ryzen users)
The recommendation is not necessarily to run two dedicated GPUs, it is to have an additional GPU (including iGPU) to dedicate to running the shader.
Use of the word “dedicate” made that a bit confusing since that is common terminology for discrete GPUs
OP has a 60Hz monitor
Friend has a 240Hz monitor and can’t enjoy a game unless it says 240 in the corner
/s
That’s about 3 hours 15 minutes per day or 25 hours a week.
I’m sure this will eventually reach a point of actually enshittification. For the time being, it seems like they’re making the highest bandwidth users - who have a part time job’s amount of time to play video games - pay more for their share.
There’s plenty of media with the same level of restrictions. The difference is that Steam is putting those restrictions in a convenient bulleted list right at the point of purchase - everywhere else, you’re expected to play ball and find out as you go along.
I went with 4K77/80/83 based on what I had read, if you have a look at the site it seems like they had access to original film and even went so far as to have separate versions intended for viewing on a projector or TV
Yup, that’s the full scan. Your quick scan results were chill enough that it wasn’t necessarily a bad idea to scan further, I usually stop a scan after 5-10 dead sectors because I know I’ll be replacing the disk.
You’ve got 47 dead / completely unresponsive sectors and quite a few that are slower to respond. Overall, it’s good that you don’t have a ton beyond the 250ms range.
I should have asked, is this disk making any clicking / grinding / scraping noises?
Before proceeding, I would prioritize manual copy of any critical / irreplaceable data. You mentioned using this disk for Program Files - Program installers can usually be sourced and rerun, so I would consider that low priority.
When it comes time to clone the disk, those dead sectors might pose a problem with cloning software. I know that, by default, Macrium Reflect and Clonezilla stop the clone on unresponsive sectors. Both have options to override that, leaving behind bad data.
If the disk is not clicky / scrapey / grindy, you could run chkdsk /r X: to have your filesystem adjusted and reallocate data away from problem areas before running a clone operation.
Please note that continued operation of a failing disk yields continued degradation. In cases of active / rapid failure, running a long filesystem repair operation like chkdsk can actually work against you.
I use OpenSuperClone, a Linux based advanced cloning tool, for most failing disk cases that come through my shop. It’s probably overkill for the current condition of your disk and there’s going to be a learning curve if you choose to go that route, but the main advantage is that it grabs all the “easy” sectors before working on problem areas in order of increasing difficulty. I would have been recommending this route if you were to have had a high count of sectors taking longer than 500ms to respond (green / orange / red). That recommendation would have been accompanied by the disclaimer “if you can’t afford to lose this data, hire a professional”
Everything I described relates mostly to motherboards for custom builds (ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, etc)
Dell doesn’t have an “Advanced Mode” and profiles are limited to one “save as custom user settings” option.
Unless something has changed with their absolute latest models, their UEFI usually follows a “tree” layout that is super navigable with a keyboard. Arrow keys, spacebar, and the TAB key ought to get you everywhere you need to go - the latter being necessary to jump from the tree on the left over to managing the different settings on the right.
The SMART table is not necessarily an accurate representation of the disk’s condition - I get a lot of disks that come through with a “GOOD” condition yet they’re on the brink of data loss.
Disks in a caution state should have replacement and data recovery prioritized.
The appropriate approach to data recovery will vary based on the condition of the disk.
A good place to start would be to download the free Victoria disk diagnostic software, run the “quick” surface scan, and post the result here. Note that any disk interaction / usage during the test will negatively bias the result.
As far as replacement is concerned, provision for whatever falls within your budget plus a second disk to use for periodic backups.
In Windows, I use two disks in a mirrored storage space to tolerate one disk failure, plus an offsite backup.
You’re using Chrome on iOS.
The address bar expands when you scroll up and contracts when you scroll down.
In your screenshot, the address bar is in the expanded state. In this state, it will partially cover page content unless you have scrolled to the very top edge.
This is not deliberate malicious placement on iFixit’s part. You are falsely attributing malice to a coincidental UI behavior in your browser of choice on your mobile platform of choice.