Based on the description on their site, the controller includes a built-in battery: "8.39 Wh Li-ion battery, 35+ hours of gameplay… "
That was disappointing for me. Specially condidering the Steam Frame’s controllers make use of AA batteries: “One replaceable AA battery per controller, 40hr battery life”
AA Batteries might not be as convenient to use, but being able to replace them is a great advantage. All my Xbox360 controllers still work fine, but none of my PS3’ Dualshock 3s.
The official docking station could be used to recharge (rechargables) AA batteries so the functionality could remain the same.
I have an 8bitdo that sits in a cradle and turns on automatically when you pick it up. Never having to worry about batteries is so nice I would never have it any other way.
I have an 8bitdo Pro2 that charges over USB-C and when the battery pack died of heavy use, you could just swap it out with rechargeable AAs and keep going. I’ve gotten over a year of additional use out of that controller now thanks to the support for AA’s.
I’m specifically not buying the Pro 3 because the battery isn’t replaceable.
I’ve found 8bitdo controllers very easy to mod and repair, and they are so good about it I’ve been able to order replacement parts directly from them in the past. Would they not sell you a replacement battery? Is the Pro 3 less repairable?
Edit - It looks like the Pro 3 just came out. I cant find any teardowns on it yet, but I’m tempted to order one just to find out.
I’ve been able to order replacement parts directly from them in the past. Would they not sell you a replacement battery? Is the Pro 3 less repairable?
I can get rechargeable AAs in packs of 4 just around the corner from my house and therefore always have a few spares on hand instead of special ordering a unique battery that only works in a single device on the planet and only is available for purchase as long as they allow it. But I guess we can just throw it away in a few years instead and buy whatever new product they want to sell, as long as it comes with a charging cradle of course.
I have mixed feelings about this. On the one hand I like the idea of AA because if the controller dies mid-session you can just swap them and keep playing, on the other this is easily solvable by having a dock like the 8BitDo Ultimate, which makes it so that the controller is always fully charged when you pick it up, so the only advantage that the AA had disappears, and it’s even more comfortable to have the controller always charged than having to get up in the middle of the play session to find new batteries. And the Steam controller has a charging puck, so it should never have the issue where AA are better. So my feeling that it would be better is not justified.
The other supposed advantage is longevity, since all batteries eventually die off, if it’s an external battery you just buy new ones and are done. Being internal makes it more of a hassle. But Valve has been very open with the repaiedness of their devices, so I expect this to not be a big issue, as long as the batteries are still being manufactured by the time the one in the controller dies off (which should take a lot more time to happen than regular AA).
Literally every wireless controller I have ever owned that used rechargable batteries could be plugged in while I was using it if it started to die. I would bet that 99% of wireless controller users have a power outlet at least somewhere near where they sit to game.
I don’t, this has never been a possibility for me in the last 4/5 houses I’ve lived unless I specifically bought a 3m long USB cable. I’m sure plenty of people do, but I don’t think it’s 99%.
I own an 8BitDo SN30 Pro+ controller that has a neat feature: It comes with a rechargeable battery back that is user replaceable via a simple back cover, but regular AA batteries can also be used in the same slot instead.
Kinda like an Xbox controller, except that the rechargeable battery was actually included instead of being a separate purchase, and no adapter is needed for either battery types.
I had something similar to this for the original fat gameboy in the 90s, except instead of being a rechargeable battery, which weren’t really worth it then, it was a plug-in adapter, and it replaced the battery cover panel to do so.
I genuinely don’t understand why that sort of thing doesn’t exist anymore, either as plug adapters or as rechargeable bricks (or both, why not), so you can fall back on standard AA or AAA if necessary. They’d be standardized parts so manufacturers would only get the original sale but… so? Would it not also be just easier from a manufacturer standpoint?
That is precisely how I feel, too!
Side tangent… Back in the day, I believe I had a power cable for the Game Boy, but it must have gotten lost or damaged at some point because I could never find it again.
Kinda like an Xbox controller, except that the rechargeable battery was actually included instead of being a separate purchase, and no adapter is needed for either battery types.
I don’t recall the Xbox rechargeable battery pack requiring an adapter. It just pops in where the AAs would be.
Pardon me, I realize I was a bit vague in my statement. I think what I was referring to was specifically the Xbox 360 wireless controller.
If I remember correctly, AA batteries didn’t quite fit directly in the controller. Rather, they fit inside a small detachable casing designed specifically for their cylindrical shape, which was then clipped onto the underside of the controller. If you then purchased a rechargeable battery pack, it replaced that attachment entirely, clipping directly onto the controller in its place.
I had totally forgotten about that, but you’re right.
Fuck AAs , not enough power. They can however use any number of user replaceable, user chargeable LiIon batteries.
Also, AAs become literal toxic waste after like 20-40 hours of gameplay, and need to be properly disposed of (that is assuming that you live in a developed country and there are recycling options available at all). Single-use battery suck and should fuck right off.
Use rechargeable AA batteries
There are like 3 or 4 different types. NiCd and NiMH have slightly different voltages and vastly different voltage curves, and it’s a gamble whether your device will work with either of them and how long they will last. Li-Ion (with a voltage regulator and charge controller) are quite expensive (compared to a pouch battery of the same capacity) and you won’t be able to buy them in the nearest grocery shop. Also, it’s not safe for the controller to even attempt to charge any of them, so you will need a separate charger, and you’ll have to take the batteries out of the controller, put them in a charger, and then put them back every time they go flat. At that point it’s just so much easier and more convenient to have a pouch-style battery that the controller charges by itself, and you can very easily replace every 5 years or so by just removing a couple screws and slapping a new AliExpress special in there. The key here is to make batteries easily replaceable, of course, ideally without any tool, but a standard philips screwdriver is acceptable too.
When AA batteries go flat you swap them and the controller is already running while the old batteries charge on your separate charger, which you can’t do with pouch batteries.
Also, it’s a game of relying on a company’s good will to provide a compatible battery, or of some Chinese manufacturer to provide it. While AAs are standard.
There’s nothing that can change my mind on the subject outside of “these batteries are standard and available everywhere forever” which you can already say for AA NiMH batteries.
If it’s a popular enough device, Chinese manufacturers will copy its batteries for more than the lifetime of the device itself. I’ve bought new replacement batteries for a smartphone over 10 years old off AliExpress.
If it’s not, chances are it’s using one of the standard pouch battery sizes (yes, that’s very much a thing, AA is not the only battery standard out there), which Chinese manufacturers will keep producing for longer than the lifetime of the universe.
The only tangible benefit is the hot-swap feature.
To me it doesn’t outweigh all the drawbacks of having to charge batteries separately. For a controller like this it literally doesn’t matter, you can just plug it in to charge while playing.
For VR controllers it does matter more, but I would still much prefer some explicitly rechargeable standard size, e.g. 14650, with a way for the controller to also be a charger still.
Like I said… This did not change my mind
Almost no one is using NiCd anymore. It’s not hard to design something to run properly from alkaline, NiMH & Li-Ion cells. We have efficient switch mode power supplies that can step the battery voltage up or down to whatever the device needs to run.
Not enough power? Where did you get that idea? If they used more power than a AA could output they would suck and they’d die instantly.
You might be replying to a wrong comment? But I think the OC meant that a bigger lithium battery can provide more power for rumble and such, compared to AAs.
I did not reply to the wrong comment. Again, if the controller used that much power, it would die instantly.
Yep. This is why I still only use XBOX controllers.
One of the nice things with Xbox 360 controllers were the rechargeable battery packs. By default, the controllers used 2 AAs, but you could instead use a battery pack. Just remove the AA battery cover, pop in the rechargeable battery, and that’s it. You could then connect a cable to the controller to recharge the battery. And, if the battery happened to be empty (or dead because of old age), you could just replace it with 2 AAs, and continue playing. Some of 8bitdo’s controllers uses (or used) the same design, but they come with a rechargeable battery pack in the box.
Li-ion is fine but it should’ve been removable. The wireless Xbox controller was great how it let you swap the pack and keep going.
Disagree. I bought the rechargeable replacement for all my xbox controllers. When those wore out, after years, I just replaced them with another rechargeable. Too Easy. I think you are making a mountain out of a mole hill.
ive preferred rechargeable batteries on all my controllers as they last quite a while.
only absolute shit one is the ps5 controller which last a couple hours and has atrocious standby time. i don’t know how it can be so bad.
Yes but you could easily replace the battery. Going by the description, it sounds like the battery is going to be internal. Now of course video game controllers have been historically easy to open, but it’s not going to be as easy as simply popping out the battery and popping in a new one like the XBOX.
I hear you. I agree requiring the whole back shell being removed to swap the battery is an oversight. Maybe they have a good reason for it, but doubt it. I’m not too worried about it considering, how often I’d have to swap in a new battery. I mean, even my used PS5 controller I bought 3 years ago, the battery works just as well as it did when I bought it. Still sucks compared to a PS4 controller, but that’s a whole other issue. If I’m removing the backshell once every 3-5 years, I’m really not bothered in the least. It’s just not an issue I care about.
You can remove the 9 screws in the back of the controller and fully remove and replace the battery. Going by valves track record they will have replacement parts on ifixit. Also one of the engineers confirmed while speaking with tested that you can easily access the battery compartment and interior of the device and replace it.
And I’m fucking going to do it every time it’d depleted. I have 4 AA batteries for my Xbox 360 controller, pop the cover swap them and continue playing. It’s that easy.
It’s a li-on battery. Just connect it to the charging puck. The internal battery lasts 35 hours.
and do what while it’s charging, jack-off?
It wouldn’t be such an issue if battery was plug-n-play type
and chargable outside controllerGet some sun? 35hrs is quite awhile.
Also fuck off with that attitude, you’re getting all worked up about a fucking toy. Grow up
What I do with my weekend is none of your fucking business
maybe some weekends I’d like to forget work and binge a gamePlease by all means, I just ask that you save your vitriol for something a little more important than game controller power supply. There’s no jack-offs here, we’re just having a discussion.
You can play while its charging…
I like how 8bitdo did it.
They gave you a rechargable battery pack that could optionally be replaced with AA batteries.
Best of both worlds.
I have a headtorch like this. Keep it charged and most of the time everything is good. But that one time when I’m out skiing at night and shit goes wrong / I run out of charge it’s OK because I have a couple of AA’s in my bag as spares.
that’s honestly the best move, even if it is more expensive it’s totally worth it.
Hell, these corporations could even make more money selling you additional packs you could swap if you didn’t want to use rechargeable AAs. It needs to be the standard, it would keep so many controllers out of landfills when their batteries go bad. Microsoft kind of does this with the standard Xbox controllers, but in typical Microsoft fashion they make your first rechargeable pack a separate purchase. I’d still way rather have that than the built in batteries though.
I think it is way more inconvenient when you pick up a dead controller and fiddle around with long cables then taking the minuit to swap out AAs. Recharchable AAs are so much more convenient and as you said ensure the controller’s longevity. I am still rocking the original steam controller.
Why? A serviceable Lithium Ion is leaps and bounds better than AA, not to mention it would lead to people using disposable batteries and creating more garbage.
This is a strange argument to me. I just don’t get it.
So. You have the controller, advertised 35+h life on a single charge.
Unless you’re some sort of gaming machine, even a no-lifer sleeps.
We’ll do a crazy minimum, you sleep 4h a day. that’s 20h for gaming. You plug it in when you sleep, a time when no one will be using it and it can be “tethered”.
if it’s a straight line (it’s probably not) 20h/35h gets you down to 42% battery.
Even 2-3 years later, battery should be between 70-80% capacity. If the minimum after a full day of usage, from charged, is 42% from the 35h estimate, in your worn 70% capacity battery you’ve still got more than 15% spare between days, after accounting for years of degradation.
And then, after using it for 3 years, you might have to contemplate using the hated screwdriver and replacing the battery. And this is only if you’ve been no-life wrecking this controller for that long. It’ll be much better from “regular” gaming usage.
I think this just comes down to undisciplined people, who can’t manage to plug their stuff in routinely. I really can’t see any other logical reason to feel this way.
And even then, for the people who can’t do charging regularly, and don’t want to worry about being tethered to a charger/their machines, a $10 power bank from a gas station fixes this issue. I charge my controller from a phone charger, already next to me, whenever it needs it. No one says that you have to explicitly plug it in to whatever you’re playing on.
Personally, I think even giving the option of using disposable batteries is irresponsible on the designer’s end. Everyone talks about rechargeables, but there’s still going to be a percentage of people who just use disposables.
This does make more sense for the frame controllers, as when they die, there’s no good/safe way you can still use them, and have them plugged in. even with a power bank the cables are, at best, ungainly, and at worst, an active safety hazard, as you swing them around you while not being able to see them. I’ve tried using index controllers wired to a power bank I was carrying, and it wasn’t good.
No one says that you have to explicitly plug it in to whatever you’re playing on.
You do if you want it to connect to the thing you’re playing on.
Unless you’re ok with a shitty Bluetooth connection. But I’m guessing few people comparatively are using that, at least as their primary use case.
You can’t tell me playing with a Bluetooth controller doesn’t actually hurt you. The constant latency is excruciating.
Then again, I use it for mostly real time- based games.
If you’re playing something like Balatro it probably doesn’t matter. But for almost everything else it sure does.
A couple of things, first no, I don’t feel the latency of a Bluetooth controller. But also the steam controller will be able to pair to multiple devices, in one of the interviews one of the engineers said “The steam Machine has its own antena, but each controller comes with its own puck, we expect the common use case to be to plug that to your PC and use the steam controller in both devices”
You do if you want it to connect to the thing you’re playing on.
Unless you’re ok with a shitty Bluetooth connection. But I’m guessing few people comparatively are using that, at least as their primary use case.
Okay, but I think that that kind of misses the broader context. This only came up as a hypothetical for how one could discharge a controller. If you’re playing on a wired connection, then the console is charging thr controller and the issue never comes up in the first place.
No, this came up from talking about how it (the puck) doesn’t have to be connected to the device you’re playing on. Which outside of Bluetooth or using a steam machine, you would have to have it connected.
Directly wired hasn’t come up at all until you just mentioned it.
I use Bluetooth on TrackMania with no issues, and that’s a pretty fast game. Top 500 in the country for this week’s shorts as well so it’s clearly not my limiting factor.
Maybe for a twitch shooter it’d be an issue but that’s kbm anyway
So… is it an obsession to want to be at least <100? Asking for myself. Send help :D
I get consistently better results on steamdeck vs PC due to lower controller latency.
I haven’t tested my controller but I’m pretty sure it’s under 100.
If you want to remove most latency I think the best option is still wired, just get a long cord that reaches easily.
For one, as far as I know that’s a single player game. Anyone with other players around means constant slight readjustments, and having everything you do held back (even if only a tenth of a second- I don’t know the actual number, that’s a ballpark guesstimate) really adds up.
For almost every game it doesn’t matter a whole lot. But when it does, it really matters. Bluetooth headphones pad the audio a smidge too, to the point of rather play without sound instead of late audio. It causes constant sending guessing, and if you’re using both your leaky playing in a game state that’s already past (although when online you always are anyway but cutting as much out as possible is miles better).
Trackmania requires the same precision as other racing games (I also used controller for Forza horizon and motorsport).
Bluetooth audio is a different issue, where my bt speaker adds like 400ms which… is not suitable for anything where accurate sound matters. Even my bt headset that is meant to be good is uhh… flawed. But noise is far more obvious than a controller being a tiny bit out.
My controller I can’t tell the difference.
I have to say, this situation has improved enough that I’ve had no problem using BT controller connection.
We’re talking about games like Elden Ring, Enter the Gungeon, MGS:Snake Eater Delta… and reaction time definitely matters for those games. One controller even came with a 2.4ghz 1000hz dongle, and it seems the new controller will probably have an option like that if the GabeGear has the hardware built into it: “Steam Controller’s wireless adapter is built right into Steam Machine for direct pairing.”
I realize that. But that’s just for that machine, but I’m speaking for arbitrary devices.
The protocol hasn’t gotten faster in the last few years that I know of.
I’ve used several with different devices, but most of my direct comparison experience is with an Xbox series X controller paired to the Deck via BT and by dongle, and it’s very noticeably more laggy with Bluetooth. I’ve only occasionally tried others, but every Bluetooth-connected controller I’ve ever used definitely has a noticeable delay.
But the controller comes with the high speed wireless puck. That puck works on anything. I don’t see the problem.
My point (the part I quoted in my original reply) was that you would need the puck plugged into the device you’re playing on, assuming you don’t want to deal with the delay.
So if that’s not a problem for you, then that doesn’t apply, but I assume most people will want the fast connection.
This is a strange argument to me. I just don’t get it.
We have a universal, standardized, cheap power cell. To this day you can use the same type of power cell in any low power device since it was standardized, going all the way back to things made in 1947. We then made it reusable for hundreds or even thousands of uses a piece, and they still only cost a few bucks.
We then replaced it with millions of different single-purpose batteries that are only compatible with one thing each.
People keep trying to gaslight me into thinking this is somehow better.
but there’s still going to be a percentage of people who just use disposables.
Make them illegal, and I’m not kidding.
All my Xbox360 controllers still work fine, but none of my PS3’ Dualshock 3s
Batteries for PS3 Dualshock are still available on ebay in my country. You just unplug a cable and remove a couple of screws. AA are not worth it.
AA should only used for flashlights (emergency), kids toys (safety) or when you are far away from an electricity network for much time (days, weeks).
Rechargeable AA work just fine and are easy to acquire. What exactly makes them “not worth it”.
Your controller stays mostly in your house and can be charged with a cable. No need for recharging devices, thinking if you have stored charged batteries, it can play while charging.
And if 20 years later you can find a replace battery for a ps3 controller that means your device probably can live for 30 years or more.
What benefits bring the rechargeable AA batteries for that particular device?
You don’t have to worry if there will be a battery available in 20 years because AAs are standardized and will always be made. Or at least far more likely than whatever proprietary crap they’re putting in these controllers. Devices that take AAs will last until the hardware wears out. You don’t have to worry about the battery being the weak link. Which has been the case for every rechargeable device I’ve ever owned. The battery is always the first to go.
I don’t want to have to pay a subscription for physical disposable fuel pods for my controller, and it would be really nice if plugging it in cut down on input delay.
You should be using rechargeable batteries.
Instead, you’re supporting planned obsolescence.
I do. They’re built in to the controller.
